Boat & Travel
In
the hilly Lake Michigan regions between Charlevoix and Traverse City, Torch
Lake shimmers in eight shades of blue, quivers with a high fish count, and
makes off with "favorite lake" honors time after time. The National
Geographic once called Torch Lake the third most beautiful lake in the
world, an opinion quoted around Antrim County as if it were an addition to
Scripture.
The thinking goes like this; other lakes are beautiful because of what surrounds them (snow-capped mountains, etc.). Torch Lake's setting is prime Michigan scenery, for sure, but the lake is a wonder in and of itself. Clear, clear water lets you see into depths averaging 200 feet while turquoise sparklers give it a glow of unreality.
Torch, an 18-mile trench scratched into the Earth by the hand of an ancient glacier, is one of several lakes linked and made deeper by an Elk River power dam at Elk Rapids that blocks the flow of water (and boats) into Lake Michigan-Boaters can wander for a hundred miles exploring Elk, Skegemog, Torch, and Clam Lakes, plus Lake Bellaire, nosing into wetlands and wildlife refuges, past mostly private property, and very small towns (nothing in the county has a year-round population over 2,000).
Area residents keep a low profile. They tend to be second-to-fourth generation cottage owners, shy on anything "touristy" that might threaten the small-community feeling of the region. Yet, there are fine places to eat, a fair supply of docking and access sites, golf not far away, and great fishing (trout, salmon, walleye, large and small mouth bass, etc.). Resort cabins, motels and bed and breakfasts are almost as scarce as daisies in winter, but available if you call ahead.
Four public ramps (Torch Lake Village, Eastport, Alden, and one at the south end) tilt directly into T.L. Four others, just around the bend, are on the Torch River (south) end of the lake and at Clam River (east). Very few overnight dock spots.
A popular boater's approach to Torch is via Elk Rapids. Those who come in from Lake Michigan must arrange shuttle service past the dam with the Elk River Marina (616-264-9500). For boat trailers coming via US 31, use the marina ramp, or drive south on Elk Lake Road (605) to Whitewater Park.
Elk Rapids was once bigger than Traverse City. Imagine the day when enough logs for 100,000 board feet of lumber a week floated downriver to local sawmills. In the old Township Hall on River St., the E.R. Historical Museum has info plus a "Welcome Boaters!" booklet for you.
Elk Lake fishing keeps some boaters from going on through Lake Skegemog and into the Torch River. (Watch out for submerged stumps and logs.)
The full-service Torch River Marine (10 transient slips; 616-929-BOAT), and a bridge with a 10-foot clearance marks entrance to the shallow south end of Torch Lake. Here, over an extensive sand shelf, boats cluster on the Fourth of July like mayflies on a screen door to watch fireworks.
Alden, on the east shore, can be remembered by very old tuners as once having a large hotel and butlers who ran down the streets with trays of food and drink for basking employers. A pair of sidewheelers gave lake rides and gas lights lit the streets.
Restock the hamper or have a gourmet dinner at Spencer Creek Landing. The home-turned-restaurant at the water's edge has won food critics' praise for lamb, quail, and trout entrees; whitefish pâté appetizers are to die for.
On up East Torch Lake Road (if you're still pulling your trailer), Brownwood Acres sits on a shelf of land 250 feet above the lake. The Brownwood Country Store fell through the ice in '57 while being moved to this spot from Eastport. Other antique buildings were brought in to serve as shops; the farmhouse serves delicious meals. Cottage rentals nearby.
At Eastport, drive (or hike) to Barnes Park, a choice picnic/camping site on Lake Michigan. Roma's On The Lake fixes Italian cravings nicely; twice-weekly outdoor dinner theater July and August. Another pull-in, south on US 31 at Torch Lake Village near the North Torch Lake Marina (full services and two transient slips available. 616-599-2813).
A tad further a wide scenic view of T.L. is yours from a table at the hill-top clubhouse of the A-Ga-Ming golf course. 18 holes, public, food and drink, from April 15 to Oct. 15. Near the water, but no dock.
For three miles Clam Lake is never more than 1,000 feet wide. Pull into the Dockside Marina restaurant for a burger and beer then proceed. Lake Bellaire lies ahead, and in between Grass River is a "wild" one, still in its original natural state. Few signs of man are visible and a group of people called the Grass Lake Project Committee are working hard to keep it that way.
Enter Lake Bellaire with caution; the entrance is shallow so steer toward the road straight across (and clearly visible) until you're in deep water. Lake Bellaire has two ramps, no marinas, although a marina lies near the bridge on the Intermediate River in town.
This is Antrim County seat, home of a wondrous old landmark courthouse (next to a new one) a laid-back pace on Bridge St., heart of businesses. You are now within shouting distance of the "legend," the golf course designed by Arnold Palmer at Shanty Creek. Its 6,700 yardage is so spread out that a trip by cart around the edges comes to seven miles.
The Torch Lake region has its own reasons to be legendary. Thousands of them are called "fish." The Antrim County Chain of Lakes is considered to have as much variety of species as any area in the state. Torch Lake, queen of the chain, is well worth hitching up and going for.